Gear Reviews
Interview with Andrew Lock
With his recent successful summit of the World’s 5th highest peak, Andrew Lock has now conquered 13 of the worlds 14 highest peaks above 8000m. In this exclusive interview, Andrew tells of his experiences and plans for the final peak.
- What has been your motivation behind this challenge?
When I first started mountaineering (back in the ‘80s) I did so with the intention of eventually climbing Mt Everest. It was before the days of guided expeditions on the bigger Himalayan mountains, so I learnt how to climb the traditional way – rock climbing in Australia, mountaineering in New Zealand and progressively higher mountains around the world. By the time I climbed Mt Everest in 2000, I’d already climbed six other 8000ers including K2, Nanga Parbat and some other tough ones. I’ve always set myself challenges that were sufficiently difficult for the end result not to be guaranteed. So, Everest no longer seemed the pinnacle, but rather a step on the way to a greater challenge. And the toughest mountaineering challenge I could think of was to climb all fourteen 8000ers. Of course I love my mountaineering and look forward to every expedition but underlying that, is a very great passion to summit the 14 big ones.
- What were the highs and low of your last climb on Makalu?
Well of course the highest ‘high’ was the summit. It is a real pinnacle, so pointy that you don’t stand on it but you clutch it to stop from dropping off. The mountain itself is all there - technical with some objective danger and plenty of altitude but overall it is achievable if you play your cards right. My two climbing partners Hector Ponce de Leon from Mexico and Neil Ward from Wales were great team mates and we had a really good time. Unfortunately they both burnt out before we made the summit, so the low was that we didn’t top out together.
- What was the most challenging / difficult peak so far?
Every 8000er is an incredible challenge and I’ve climbed them in so many different ways that the challenges have been compounded. Broad Peak solo (truly solo – I was the only person on the mountain after a 10 day storm), Nanga Parbat, K2, even Everest the first time all threw up some serious obstacles. Annapurna was probably the most psychologically challenging peak because I had to come back to it after my friend was killed on the first attempt.
- As part of the official GORE-TEX® product Test Team: how did your GORE-TEX® Pro Shell jacket perform? What are the most important features in the GORE-TEX® Pro Shell jacket that you rely on?
Honest opinion – it really is a great jacket! I’ve used it on 3 expeditions now and it shows almost no signs of wear. I’ve used it for trekking in the lowlands because it breathes so well and in howling blizzards high on the hills because I can rely on it to be absolutely weather proof. It slips on and off easily over base layers and particularly powerstretch, which can catch on some jackets.
- What is your lucky charm - the one thing that you always take with you?
I have a little Christmas decoration Moose given to me for luck in 1997. He’s served me well and climbed with me on almost every expedition since ‘97. A couple of other little critters have been given to me in recent years but they prefer to stop in basecamp these days.
- What was your most extraordinary experience while climbing the World's highest mountains?
I couldn’t ever pick the MOST extraordinary; there have been so many amazing experiences. My first summit on Mt Everest after being forced back down to basecamp from the South Summit, watching the sunset from the summit of K2 , last year’s success on Annapurna, my solo ascent of Broad Peak; they all rank right up there. There have also been some wonderful team experiences and shared summits which are always more satisfying than doing it by yourself. Also, having to bivouac at 8000 metres with equipment on two occasions took me to an entirely new level of awareness. Lucky I was wearing my GORE-TEX® jacket.
- What was the most dangerous situation you had to face in all the summits?
I was buried in an avalanche on Dhaulagiri in 1997 and had another one go over the top of me on Annapurna in 2005. Both were a little unnerving!
- How will you prepare for your next challenge?
Next year I plan to climb the final 8000er in my project and follow it up with an immediate ascent of Mt Everest without oxygen. I’ve already started training for it and planning the expeditions but a major component of that will be to get absolutely the right clothing and equipment sorted before I head over there. Bring on the GORE-TEX® jacket!
- Where’s the next test for GORE-TEX® product technology once you are the first Australian to climb all of the World's highest mountains?
Well, if I am successful next year, I hope to follow it up with some big wall aid climbing (in the sun) but down the track I have ideas for some polar adventures, desserts, oceans….It will have to be versatile technology, so its great to be working with GORE-TEX® products. |
